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By Steff Yotka
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To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories.
Since COVID reset our world in 2020, fashion designers have been grappling to find a way to reflect and respond to global crises. There have been masks on the runway or no masks on the runway; clothes for staying home or clothes for going out; and realities clashing with fantasias. The idea of building philosophy into fashion seems to have imprinted most on the new guard of menswear designers, who see their collections not only as clothes to wear but ways to be. Their presentations across Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris reflect that—the clothes matter, sure, but what you do in them and how you feel wearing them is of the utmost urgency.
Paris Fashion Week began with a presentation from Georges Wendell at the legendary Chez L’Ami Louis. Designer Pierre Kaczmarek pointed out that the resto is “one of the last places you can smoke inside,” with a mischievous grin, adding, “the reason I got into fashion was to meet people.” At his cocktail hour turned fashion presentation, Kaczmarek encouraged mischief amid the banquettes, casting his friends, their friends, and their girlfriends in his collection of swanky Le Sentier–inspired suiting and flirty dresses. Kaczmarek has a natural vibey-ness: The way he cuts the double layers of pleats on a micromini or constructs made-man blazers with multiple lapels has less to do with perfecting design as it does with perfecting a mood.
Georges Wendell fall 2022
Georges Wendell fall 2022
